Comments "Removing Rusted Control Arm Bolts":
Author: ArajarIn order to remove the control arm this bolt has to be removed.
Author: VoodoobeiWhy is the reason to remove that bolt aside from being rusted? What was it doing? My car is moving side to side when driving, doing some research and this came up. Any thoughts anyone?
Author: Gasidanice video! thanks.
Author: NacageYou caught me yup Boston area all my life.
Author: GoshuraImportant Update: Jan 1 2013 there will be a new richpin channel for all future videos.Richpin06a channel will be solely for all the Saturn lovers out there.Should be a lot of fun so stay tuned.
Author: MakoraHey Rich, I just found this video and I'm glad I did. Working on this exact problem on my 96 Saturn SC1. The bolts on mine are really rusty, and stuck hard. Thanks for the tips, I'll be trying them out!
Author: Faebeican you tell me the part number for that bolt and nut?
Author: Yozshugoreim having a really hard time finding one.
Author: FaudalYes the sawzall is you best friend sometimes.
Author: Mogisthat was a really bad example of a frozen bolt. when in doubt, heat the shit out of it.
Author: VoodoomiAwesome. Im working on my saturn SL2 93 and trying to get that bolt out and saw your video. I'm like sweet the guy I trust with saturn's. Will this also work with the Passenger side. as well
Author: JurnYou hit it right on the head.
Author: FegrelSometimes you're probably going to ruin one of those control arm bolts no matter how careful you are. What if it's an older vehicle and the bolts have been discontinued and the aftermarket suppliers don't have them either? What do you look for at the local hardware store besides the correct size and shape? Do they have to be a certain grade of steel?
Author: MezahnJust had the problem on my old accord. I'm pretty sure they were grade 10 bolts. I'd recommend a sawzall with a bimetal cutting blade to cut the bolts. I mistakenly hammered the crap outta them and ruined my subframe. So, if they're seized, just cut em out and replace the bushing/control arm. The sawzall/reciprocating saw method took 2 minutes.
Author: MikacageSounds like a New England accent. Definitely not NYC or NJ. Great video.
Author: TezahnI' tried your method here and soaked the bolt in about half a can of PB blaster and it still won't budge! I can;t think of any other thing other than the to cut the bolt and pry out the control arm or torch it to loosen it. But my car is covered and oil and I'm not sure I want to mess with the fire hazard. Any ideas?
Author: TukreeGreat video!
Author: DicageYou might what to try this penetrating oil called Aerokroil it is supposed to amazing stuff.
Author: ZulkitilarThanks! I'll give it a shot. I want to thank you for all your posts, especially for stuff with the SL1. You've saved me a lot of trial and error. Much appreciated!
Author: GrozshuraThank you for your videos. I really enjoy learning new techniques. I especially like the video of removing rusted brake breeders with that handy socket and air hammer.
Author: ZulkidalThis dude is 110% new englander or lived in Boston lol it's the haaardest paaaht
Author: TygokoraI spent all weekend getting this exact driver's side bolt out. That thing was a nightmare! The passenger side was really easy and slipped right out. I tried everything except torching it bc I can't afford one. I ended up cutting the control arm, through the middle, then cut the circular part of the control arm where it goes around that bolt. Once that was out of the way, it left the metal sleeve, the rubber bushing and then the smaller metal sleeve that the bolt was rusted to. I then cut the larger metal sleeve lengthways and once the cut was complete, the tension from it popped it open to remove. Then I used a knife to slit the rubber bushing lengthways to get that out. What was left was the bolt and the inner metal sleeve to which it was rusted.
Author: TorI spent 5 days removing only 1 lca bolt out on my mustang gt. Used torch, pb blaster, breaker bar and sledgehammer. Driver side tomorrow. Ugh!
Author: KeshicageI then proceeded to cut this metal sleeve all the way down lengthways (I could even see the threads of the bolt). At this point I was determined to get this thing out if I had to grind the whole thing out. Where I was cutting into the metal sleeve, I would use a pry bar and wedge it into the cut and smack it with a hammer. Eventually I was able to get a small screwdriver in between the bolt head and frame and then I used the tie rod separator to pry against. Then it got stuck midway out and I was able to turn the sleeve outwards to insert a punch and just kept on punching it until it fell out. I am still not convinced it wasn't one huge chunk of metal :) Once I was done, I had to get a victory picture with half a dozen used dremel cutoff wheels, 5 sawzall blades, and of course the broken control arm pieces. What a feeling though once it was removed!
Author: NikonosIt is a craftsman 900.271221